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From bad-boy Bogota to clean-cut Cartagena: A love affair with Colombia

VAWN HIMMELSBACH, Chic Savvy Travels

He’s a man with a past. He’s intense, broody, dangerous. He makes you nervous, but you’re irresistibly drawn to him — perhaps against your better judgment. But you’ve seen another side to bad-boy Bogota.

Bogota is the third-highest capital in South America (at 2,625 metres above sea level), surrounded by lush, misty mountains. But it has a violent past, thanks to the cocaine trade and FARC guerrillas. In the mid-90s, this city of 9 million was considered one of the most violent cities in the world. The government has since made a concerted effort to improve infrastructure and safety, though after a certain hour it’s not advised to walk around in the streets, and there are dangerous neighbourhoods it’s best to avoid.

Street art in La Candelaria, Bogota. Photo by Vawn Himmelsbach

But wander around the hilly cobblestone streets of La Candelaria in Old Bogota (during the day), and you’ll discover a city full of life — of history, politics and culture. You’ll see groups of students from the area’s five universities in animated discussion. And upon closer inspection you’ll see that these crumbling colonial buildings are really canvases for some of the best politically charged graffiti you’ll see anywhere in the world — and a window into contemporary Colombia. (A great way to see the city’s graffiti is through Bogota Bike Tours.)

Not everyone likes Bogota. But I felt an energy here, perhaps of change, or hope for the future. Of perhaps I just drank way too much café tinto.

Then there’s Cartagena, that clean-cut pretty boy who is, possibly, a little too picture-perfect (like he’s had some work done). And this hottie (the temperature hovers around 30 C year round) always has a well-heeled socialite on his arm.

Cartagena is considered the most beautiful colonial city in South America (I’m talking about the historic walled city, not its seedy cousin Getsemani, the budget backpacker part of town), where you can wander the restored medieval streets past 300-year-old Spanish colonial buildings in shades of ochre and dusty rose. Once associated with the cocaine trade, Cartagena has transformed itself into a hotspot for Latin American and European socialites, with plenty of boutique shops, luxury hotels and fusion restaurants.

In fact, Cartagena has become a foodie’s paradise. Don’t miss the ceviche (try it at La Cevicheria, where it’s served with lemon juice and crackers, or “being seen” at La Vitrola, a trendy jazz club/restaurant that serves Cuban fare with a kick. Or visit one of the city’s many patisseries, where you can get all sorts of decadent treats and, of course, great coffee.

And then there’s the nightlife: Watch the setting sun over the Caribbean to the grooves of a DJ while sipping a cocktail at Café del Mar, located on the ramparts of the 400-year-old city wall. Or drink a martini at El Coro Lounge Bar — a former nunnery. And there’s no shortage of places to salsa and drink rum.

Not to be forgotten is Taganga. Perhaps you didn’t notice him right away. He’s cute, but he didn’t capture your attention like Bogota or Cartagena — at first. He’s a nice guy, and the more you get to know him, the more you like him. And then, suddenly, you realize you’re completely smitten and don’t want to leave.

Taganga, Colombia. Photo by Vawn Himmelsbach

Taganga is a fishing village dotted along a horseshoe-shaped bay on the Caribbean coast, surrounded by the Sierra Nevada mountains. The beach is lovely, though it’s not your typical Caribbean white-sand beach with turquoise water. But the water is calm and safe for swimming, the beach isn’t crowded (unless it’s the weekend, when the locals from nearby Santa Marta descend) and you can chill on the beach without being hassled by hawkers. And each night, everyone — backpackers and locals alike — heads down to the beach to watch the sunset.

There’s plenty of adventure nearby for those who want it: Head to Tayrona National Park to camp in the jungle amid dramatic scenery, or trek to the archeological ruins of Ciudad Perdida — the Lost City. But you may just want to chill out on the beach with a cold cerveza, eating grilled fish (one you’ve picked out of a bucket of freshly caught fish), coconut rice and plantains. And try a fresh fruit shake in all sorts of interesting flavours: lulo, zapote, mamoncillo, granadilla or feijoa, to name a few.

While in Colombia, don’t forget to go salsa-dancing with ultra-slick sophisticated Medellin. And get your hiking boots on for a day of adventure with outdoorsy San Gil, who will take you white-water rafting, paragliding, caving, kayaking and hiking through jungle paths to swim in a waterfall. No matter what your type, there’s a city in Colombia that will charm you.

Date Added: May 12, 2011 | Comments (0)